Dec 31, 2016

Current Obsessions: Happy New Year

The final week of December is our favorite of the month. As we relished the quiet we found several inspirational finds for 2017. Read on to see some of them––and Happy New Year!

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Above: Our friend Heidi Swanson lauds her green alkalizing soup as an “anti-dote to the holidays.” All health benefits considered, we’ll be making it for the gorgeous color alone. Photograph by Heidi Swanson courtesy of 101 Cookbooks.

  • Flora in an abstract fashion.
  • In one Vietnamese home, the plants are winning.
  • The botany of dessert.
  • Bunny Williams, the __garden & Gun version.

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Above:  Coming soon: Wander. Photograph courtesy of Wander.

  • From farming to food labeling, five food trends to watch in 2017.
  • Three start-ups are changing the flower business.
  • In Remodelista news: A Revolution-era Hudson Home Gets an Update from Jersey Ice Cream Co.

Our Latest Instagram Obsession

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Above: A daily dose of color from The Bouqs Company, a farm-fresh flower delivery service based in Venice, California (@thebouqsco).

Searching for more inspirational pieces and haunts? If so, consider:

  • Garden Visit: My Garden Oasis in Half Moon Bay, California.
  • Current Obsessions: Happy Holidays.
  • A West Texas River Ranch with a Worldly View.

Dec 25, 2016

Behind the scenes of Gardeners' Question Time, in No 10's back garden

Along Downing Street they come, from the suburbs and the shires, past tourists and sundry Whitehall gawpers, in their good shoes and best sweaters, some keeping it real in warm and serviceable fleece, enjoying a day off from the planting of bulbs and mulching of beds. 

This is HortiCool Britannia on the move, and the excitement is palpable. These are the lucky 80, drawn from 2,500 applicants, to attend the special Christmas recording of BBC Radio 4’s Gardeners’ Question Time at 10 Downing Street.

In the state dining room, young production staff in navy BBC T-shirts and Santa hats bob about. The audience pulls Christmas crackers. Some put their paper hats on; most don’t. In front of us is a table decorated with variegated holly and a mic-stand festooned with mistletoe. 

The GQT panel set up in Downing Street's state dining room Credit: BBC Pictures

And then here he is, Eric Robson, the show’s presenter for the past 22 years. “What a village hall!” he says, and everyone...

Bryony Gordon: Can therapy on the run clear my mind?

Beware therapists bearing trainers. Not to mention lycra running gear. If you thought that being analysed by a stranger was weird beyond belief, then try doing it while going for a jog through the local park with them. 

“Do you think you are a very emotive person?” 

I can barely breathe right now, let alone emote.

“Have you ever been to Alcoholics Anonymous, or Narcotics Anonymous?”

My answer to this is no, but sounds more like ‘cough-splutter-splutter- cough-cough-hack-splutter’.

“Tell me your problems...”

Where do I start? At the fact my life is so disorganised I only manage a run about once every six months, thus making me perenially unfit? Or maybe at the fact my editor clearly thinks I need help, given her insistence I take part in this feature? (Just a joke. Sort of.)

Welcome to Dynamic Running Therapy (DRT), the newest kid on the self-help block. It takes counselling off the couch...

Gardening events 2016

December 

17-24 December

Come and meet Santa at the Royal Botanic __garden Edinburgh. He will be based in the John Hope Gateway where his room has been given a touch of winter wonderland magic. Free event. Follow with a stroll around the wintery gardens. 10.30am-3.30pm (rbge.org.uk). 

26 December

At Fountains Abbey the Boxing Day Pilgrimage will once again mark the day 13 monks made their journey from Ripon to found the abbey in 1132. The pilgrimage begins following a service at Ripon Cathedral and then wends its way to Fountains Abbey, where the monks started a community. The pilgrimage ends with a carol service in the abbey cellarium. 9.30am – 1pm, Fountains Abbey & Studley Royal, Yorkshire (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ fountains-abbey-and-studley- royal-water-garden).

26 December

On Boxing Day, after the excesses of Christmas, what better way to blow away the cobwebs than a brisk stroll around the grounds of Bodiam Castle, and into the local village? On this guided walk you’ll also get an exclusive tour of the castle before it opens to visitors. Afterwards you can refuel in the Wharf Tea Room with a breakfast bap and hot drink. Price £15 (booking essential). 9.30am – 11.30pm,  Bodiam Castle, East Sussex (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ bodiam-castle).

26 December 

Boxing Day (and New Year’s Day) walks in the parkland are a tradition at Basildon Park. Enjoy a pink-nosed stroll through the 400-acre landscape, with National Trust wildlife enthusiasts on hand to point out the highlights of the estate. Afterwards you can cosy up in the tea-room with mulled wine and mince pies. 11am – 12 noon with the option for another hour, Basildon Park, Berkshire (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ basildon-park).

26 December

The walled garden at Hinton Ampner, Hampshire Credit: Chris Lacey/National Trust Images

With its far-reaching South Downs views, Hinton Ampner is a great place to shake off the post-Christmas ‘fuzz’. The ancient parkland and beech woodland are easy to navigate using downloadable trails, but you can join a guided Boxing Day or New Year’s Day walk. Hinton Ampner’s head gardener will lead you on a four-mile walk around the estate, with hot chocolate and shortbread provided to help you keep warm and cosy. Price: £15 each (booking essential). 10.30am – 12.30pm, Hinton Ampner, Hampshire (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ hinton-ampner).

27 December

Enjoy a scenic post-Christmas walk through Ashridge estate, with National Trust rangers on hand to tell you more about the estate and the work they dot. Look out for the deer in their winter coats and birds foraging for food in the woodland. Afterwards, head to the café for a warm drink and a slice of cake. Adult £5, child £3 (booking essential). 10am – 12pm, Ashridge Estate, Hertfordshire (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ ashridge-estate).

Until 31 December

Stowe Credit: Rod Edwards/National Trust Images 

Landscape advent calendar: head out on a winter adventure and follow the Stowe House trail to discover 24 hidden doors in the landscape as part of a giant advent calendar  (01280 817156; nationaltrust.org.uk/stowe). Stowe, Buckinghamshire MK18 5EQ. 

Top 25 plants to grow in summer

  • Spring
  • Autumn
  • Winter

Summer

Light levels are at their highest now and colours take on a pastel sheen.

1 Allium 'Purple Sensation' (Allium hollandicum)

May-flowering allium with truly purple globular heads, forms a strong vertical and best follow-up act for tulips. Easy (1m/3ft).

Allium 'Purple Sensation' (Allium hollandicum) Credit: Features Scan

2 Rose 'Goldfinch'

Almost-thornless rambler, flowers once a year with clusters of apricot fading to clotted cream. Fence, wall or pergola (4m/13ft).

3 Carthusian Pink (Dianthus carthusianorum)

More a stylish sweet William than a pink, with willowy stems crowned by dark pointed buds that open in sequence to reveal fringed magenta flowers. Sun (40cm/16in).

Carthusian Pink Credit: Alamy

4 Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus)

Self-seeder for steps, cracks and crevices, produces a tiny blush-pink and white daisies from spring to November. Easy (20cm/8in).

Mexican fleabane Credit: GAP Photos/Richard Bloom

5 Masterwort (Astrantia major 'Roma')

Exceptionally long flowering season; the candy-pink petals surrounding the brighter pink pincushion have tasteful green tips. Part sun, moist soil (60cm/2ft).

Astrantia major 'Roma' Credit: GAP Photos

6 Oriental poppy 'Karine' (Papaver orientale)

This shallow-cupped, pale pink oriental poppy has a beetroot centre to each smallish flower. Sun, good drainage (70cm/28in).

Oriental poppy 'Karine' Credit: Mim Friday / Alamy

7 Rose 'Madame Alfred Carrière'

Blush-white, noisette climber that repeats until late in the year. Olive-green foliage, thrives on north-facing walls. Good soil (5m/16ft).

8 Clematis 'Perle d'Azur'

Rounded azure-blue flowers set against mid-green foliage from late summer until early autumn. Cut back hard in spring. Protect roots from full sun (3m/10ft).

Clematis 'Perle d'Azur' Credit: John Glover / Alamy

9 Peony 'Festiva Maxima' (Paeonia lactiflora)

Full and fragrant with creamy white double flowers subtly splashed in rose red - perfect among pink, magenta and deep purple roses. Good soil (1m/3ft).

10 Milky bellflower 'Prichard's Variety' (Campanula lactiflora)

Purple-blue bells held on dark stems, willing to repeat if deadheaded. Sun or part sun (75cm/30in).

11 Catmint 'Six Hills Giant' (Nepeta)

A simple catmint, but the sea of blue billows through the __garden like a wave. Cut back to encourage more. Sun (90cm/3ft).

Catmint Nepeta faassenii Six Hills Giant Credit: Mark Turner / __garden Picture Library

12 Marguerite Daisy 'Susanna Mitchell' (Anthemis)

Sheer flower power, with masses of lax pale yellow daisies floating above silver filigree foliage. Sun (45cm/18in).

13 Penstemon 'Andenken an Friedrich Hahn' (syn. 'Garnet')

The most enduring penstemon, with spires of wine-red flowers for months. Drought-resistant and great with silvers. Full sun, good drainage (90cm/3ft).

14 Geranium Rozanne ('Gerwat')

A wide sprawler with white-eyed, soft blue saucers from May until late, plus good mottled foliage. Sun or part sun (60cm/2ft).

Geranium Rozanne ('Gerwat' Credit: Leigh Hunt / Handout

15 Geranium Patricia ('Brempat')

Black-eyed, magenta-pink geranium with abundant flower power. Weave among blue veronicas. Sun or part sun (75cm/30in).

16 Shrubby hare's ear (Bupleurum fruticosum)

A shrubby umbellifera covered with flat heads of lime-green flowers and evergreen leaves. Well-drained soil and some sun (2.5m/8ft).

Shrubby Hare's Ear Credit: Florapix / Alamy

17 Miss Willmott's ghost (Eryngium giganteum)

This biennial sea holly dazzles like no other with its branching framework of silvered stems, jagged bracts and thimbles. Sun (90cm/3ft).

18 Buddleia 'Pink Delight'

A recent discovery, this compact, fragrant butterfly bush has pink flowers and silver foliage. Sun or part sun (1.75m/6ft).

19 Golden oats (Stipa gigantea)

An atmospheric oat grass that creates a shimmering golden fountain in summer sun every time it trembles. Sun, good drainage (2m/3ft).

Stipa gigantea Credit: Alamy

20 Foxglove 'Sutton's Apricot' (Digitalis purpurea)

Spires are essential and this apricot biennial foxglove will reach up to heaven. Good against stone. Semi-shade (1.6m/5ft).

21 Clematis 'Purpurea Plena Elegans'

This dusky magenta clematis with Elizabethan provenance produces double flowers in late summer. Prune hard in spring. Good soil (3m/10ft).

22 Clematis 'Etoile Violette'

Gappy purple flowers with golden stamens. Classy follow-up to once-only roses. Prune hard in spring. Good soil (4m/13ft).

Clematis 'Etoile Violette' Credit: Northern Exposure Photography / Alamy

23 Lavender 'Imperial Gem' (Lavandula angustifolia)

A chunky, deep purple English lavender with silver foliage, suitable for hedging. Trim hard in August. Full sun, good drainage (60cm/2ft).

Lavender 'Imperial Gem' Credit: Martin Pope

24 Macedonian scabious (Knautia macedonica)

This branching wine-red scabious insists on throwing out more button flowers all summer long, adding vibrant summer highlights. Drought-tolerant (80cm/30in).

25 Rose 'Buff Beauty'

Large hybrid musk rose with graceful, arching branches covered in fragrant, soft apricot blooms. Bronze foliage. Accommodating (2m/6ft).

Rose 'Buff Beauty' Credit: Andrew Crowley

Diana Henry: what to do with leftover Christmas turkey, ham, stuffing sprouts and more

In two days’ time, the “big” meal, with its inherent stress (the entire family peering through the oven door, murmuring, “Do you think that turkey’s cooked yet?”), will be done and dusted. Boxing Day, if you’re in charge of the Christmas cooking, brings freedom.

December 26 presents so many leftovers – the overspill housed in the garage, the laundry room, wherever it’s cold enough – that you won’t have to shop for days. Transforming these into meals requires ideas more than recipes, but it can be hard to think of what to do beyond the pie you make every year or a pan of bubble and squeak.

So I’ve done some thinking for you. Keep this safe until Boxing Day.

Turkey

Russian turkey pie

Make your usual béchamel sauce (I always put some Dijon mustard in it), add sautéed onions and chunks of turkey and stir in lots of chopped dill, some chopped pickled gherkins, a little of the vinegar from the...

Care doesn't stop at Christmas for children being looked after by Roald Dahl nurses

"Christmas can actually be lovely in hospital,” says Helen Webster, a nurse who specialises in paediatric bone marrow transplants at the Royal Manchester Children’s Hospital. “It’s really busy, but nice and happy. There are Christmas carols in the foyer, the wards are decorated beautifully and each child in the transplant unit gets their own Christmas tree, which they are encouraged to decorate.”

Helen is one of 52 Roald Dahl children’s nurses, each of whom is a specialist in their field and funded by the trust set up in memory of the late author, Roald Dahl’s Marvellous Children’s Charity. Their aim is to support children living with serious, rare and undiagnosed conditions and to make life easier for their families – particularly if they have to be in hospital at Christmas.

One such child under Helen’s care is Alex Prescott, a seven-year-old from Liverpool. He was diagnosed with lymphoma, a blood cancer, in July last year and had treatment, but suffered a relapse in August. Then his brother James was found to be a bone marrow match, meaning the family could go ahead with a transplant that might help Alex recover.

Alex with his father, James, and nurse Helen Webster, a Roald Dahl nurse Credit: Warren Smith

“He’s been having chemotherapy since August but this is cause for hope for his parents,” says Helen. “They were delighted to find out James was a match because it just makes life so much easier. You’ve got your donor with you and you haven’t got to rely on a stranger or a volunteer who may not be able to do the transplant when it’s the best time for your child.”

The transplant took place last week. James is just two years old, so was put under a general anaesthetic while bone marrow was taken from his hip. “It wasn’t nice watching the little one go into theatre, but it had to be done,” says the boys’ mother, Michelle. “He’s a little bit sore now but it’s nothing a bit of Calpol can’t fix.”

Bone marrow donors, even the youngest ones, recover quickly. Most are well enough to go back to school within a couple of days, says Helen, who oversees 50 such transplants a year. The procedure is suitable for treating children with a relatively wide range of conditions, from malignant diseases such as leukaemia that have relapsed or are resistant to standard chemotherapy, to other blood disorders like sickle cell or aplastic anaemia. It can also be used to treat metabolic conditions, when children  are born with an enzyme missing. “If you give them a new marrow that will provide the missing enzyme and improve the quality of life immensely,” says Helen.

For Alex, this transplant could also be life-changing – but the procedure for him is gruelling. He spent last week receiving high doses of chemotherapy to wipe out his bone marrow, in order to give the new cells the best chance in his body. The transfusion was a success, but he will spend the next six to eight weeks in hospital recovering. “On Christmas Day I think he’ll be feeling the peak of the side effects of his chemotherapy,” says Helen. “He’ll probably be very tired with a sore mouth and a sore tummy. He’ll be up and about for short periods, but I always say to families during that time that he’ll be capable more of a quick game of Connect Four, not a big game of Monopoly.”

They’re very welcoming. It’s such a sensitive time for all of us so you need the nurses to be like that Michelle Prescott

As the Prescotts’ designated nurse, it is Helen’s job to be the family’s key contact point during this sensitive time. With her help, the family has secured a room at Ronald McDonald House, which provides free accommodation for families with children in hospital, for the duration of Alex’s stay. Over the Christmas period she will catch up with the family most days to answer their questions and inform them about activities or treats going on in the hospital. “They had Manchester City players come in a couple of days ago and I’ve been told there are other visitors coming in but they can’t say who,” says Michelle. “It gets all the kids excited, wondering who it is. Alex got a bag of Man City bits and bobs like a signed card and a scarf – he likes wearing that.”

It makes all the difference having a nurse like Helen on side, says Michelle. “If there’s a question that I feel a bit awkward about they’re absolutely fine with answering it because they’ve heard it all before. They’re very welcoming. It’s such a sensitive time for all of us so you need the nurses to be like that and they are.”

While Helen’s ward will be full this Christmas, with six other children besides Alex recovering from bone marrow transplants, other Roald Dahl nurses around the country have been doing their best over the past few weeks to ensure that their young patients stay out of the hospital over the holidays. Thirty-one of the Roald Dahl nurses are specialists in epilepsy, an unpredictable condition causing seizures that can be hard to manage. “Our main aim is to try and keep our patients at home, to empower families to safely manage the seizures,” says Louise Capeling, an epilepsy nurse at the Royal Gwent Hospital in Newport. “Any child that gets admitted to the ward over the Christmas period would be discharged as soon as possible to ensure they enjoy this special time with their families.”

Louise Capeling with her patient Blake, who has epilepsy, and his mother Anita Edwards, before attending a special event with HRH The Duchess of Cornwall at Clarence House Credit: Sophie Dziwinski

For nurse Edith Aimiuwu of Whittington Hospital in north London, Christmas will be a time of high alert. She specialises in sickle cell anaemia, a complex genetic condition affecting the red blood cells that causes a range of problems from tiredness to extreme pain. “The painful crises are very unpredictable,” says Edith. “The red blood cells lose their normal biconcave shape and become sickle shaped, so they get clogged up in the blood vessels causing the pain because there’s no oxygen going through.” These episodes can triggered by infection, dehydration or cold weather, meaning this time of year can be particularly difficult.

Edith’s role is to offer extra support in any way she can: a comforting voice at the end of a phone; direct access to the ward so families can avoid A&E if a crisis does occur; and advice on resources to make life easier. “One of the symptoms of sickle cell is to bed-wet at night, which means they might need a new mattress or washing machine. In that case we can identify what needs to be done and provide for them.”

Like most of the Roald Dahl nurses, Edith won’t be working on Christmas Day, but her unique role in providing families with the extra care to make every day life bearable won’t stop just for the holidays. A Roald Dahl nurse’s phone is always on, says Edith. “It could be just a phone call or a text message – I’ll say 'do this’ or 'do that’ and that supports them and helps them get through.”

The Telegraph Christmas Charity Appeal 2016

Roald Dahl’s Marvellous Children’s Charity is one of three causes supported by the Telegraph this Christmas; the others are animal charity Blue Cross and the Heads Together mental health campaign. To make a donation, please call 0151 284 1927 or see telegraph.charitiestrust.org

Dec 24, 2016

Current Obsessions: Happy Holidays

We found a bevy of gorgeous haunts, wares and inspiration on the precipice of this holiday weekend. Here’s a look.

And we’re wishing you a Happy Holiday!

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Above: Stacey is in awe of the stunning edible centerpiece created by Heirloom LA, a hardworking vegan culinary company making a conscious impact in LA. The team selected all ingredients from small farmers using “beyond organic practices” and completed the vignette with plates, glasses and flatware by Casa de Perrin. Photo courtesy of Heirloom LA.

  • A last minute gift for the eternal flower lover.
  • More reasons why we love cactus for the home.

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Above: We’re coveting one of Tara Burke’s quirky, artistic vases. Each piece––a study in uniqueness––offers a reminder not to take things too seriously. Photo courtesy of Tara Burke Ceramics.

  • A new LA resto filled with bougainvillea, mandevilla and starlets.
  • 5 ways to bring the outdoors in for winter decor.

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Above: In case you missed it: Michelle delves into the hardscaping adventures of creating and maintaining a backyard ice skating rink. Is it the right winter project for you? Read here to find out. Photograph via Nice Rink.

  • From Morocco to Long Island, a look back at some of 2016’s most beautiful __garden escapes.
  • In Remodelista news: A London Restaurant with “Hygge”

Our Latest Instagram Obsession

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Above: In every post by Australian plant shop owner and creative Emma McPherson’s, the plants are always winning––and we can’t get enough (@the_plantroom).

For more of our latest discoveries and dream destinations visit our posts:

  • At Home at Juniper Hill Farm in New Hampshire
  • Terrarium Lights: Sustainable Worlds from Spruitje in Norway
  • Current Obsessions: Wildcrafted Wisdom

Dec 18, 2016

Helen Yemm: tips for ponds, plants for shade

Tips for small ponds

Pond-life sinks to the bottom for the winter so November is a good time to do some maintenance-clearing in and around the pond.

Net gains: As autumn leaves linger and swirl, the regular use of a telescopic-handled, flat-fronted pond-skimming net is helpful. Left to sink to the bottom in quantity, leaves seriously damage water quality, so where this has been a problem, plan to cover ponds next year with mesh.

Leaves to leave? Water lily foliage causes no problems as it dies right back but you may need to hook out some of the messy tangle of watercress stems. What you leave will grow again in spring (usefully controlling blanket weed). And while the seed heads of Siberian irises and rodgersias look good for weeks, tatty leaves of other bog and marginal plants can be sheared and cleared. Leave alone, however, the thick mats of oxygenating weed near the pond’s surface that provide bathing/drinking rafts for __garden birds.

And finally… if it is impractical to remove circulating pumps, keep them running in frost-free weather, but on a timer. Inactive and submerged, they tend to clog up. And if your pond is steep-sided consider installing a plank as an escape-ramp for disorientated hedgehogs.

Shade-loving plants for privacy

Credit: Peter Jordan / Alamy

Will anything grow in pots that will give privacy and look good in an exceedingly dark, paved passageway (about 13ft/4m wide) between two small terraced houses? The dividing wall between the houses is barely 5ft (1.5m) high, so we effectively look into each other’s kitchens when our blinds are up. None of us gardens, and this is a joint project.

Bridget Jones (yes really), via email 

This is, surely, a common problem for owners of small terraced houses. First, the lack of light: painting the walls to a certain height with a light-reflective hue will make a big difference. White is probably best – a definite colour might annoy you after a while. Then you could put up 12in (30cm) of smart, small-squared trellis on top of the wall, or perhaps that more modern alternative of horizontal wooden slats.

But steer away from fast-growing climbers in containers to grow up everything. They would soon race off to find the sun and leave you with their ugly undercarriages to look out on, leaves to sweep up and (perish the thought) a pruning job. You will find that, even unadorned by greenery, the trellis/screen will subtly but significantly remove the “eyeball-to-eyeball” feeling.

As for plants, less is more: a low-maintenance hardy evergreen, with architectural shiny leaves, the false castor oil plant Fatsia japonica (above), would grow well with limited light to about 4ft x 3ft (1.2m x 1m) and look magnificent through the kitchen window against a stark white wall, planted in a large, handsome container 1½ft (45cm) high and wide.

An alternative would be a virtually evergreen bamboo, one of the smaller-leaved ones, e.g. Fargesia nitida. Come to think of it, if both households planted one of each of these and put them against their side of the wall alternately back to back, they would soon form a green thicket. Success might even lead to an interest in gardening.

Making a bog garden 

Credit: John Glover/Alamy

The wildlife pond in my old __garden was a great focal point. I now have a toddler,  so a pond is impractical. Will a bog garden work  on a small scale? 

Amelia Bateman, via email 

It would be easy to make a small and toddler-safe bog garden – a sopping-wet flower bed, really – in which you can grow many of the plants you enjoyed around your pond: bog irises and primulas, mimulus and kingcups, for example. An area little more than 10 sq ft (1 sq m) would just about work, although twice that would be easier to maintain.

Start by choosing an area in which it would sit naturally (for example, at the lowest point, if you are on a slope). Dig out an area to the depth of at least 14in (35cm), lining it with butyl (pond liner) and puncturing it with a skewer in several places so that it will retain moisture but leak very slowly. Tuck the edges of the liner out of sight and create your “bog” soil using a mixture of grit and multi-purpose compost (not garden soil since it may contain weeds), then dribble a hose into it until it is saturated.

Once it is planted up, keep it moist (preferably using rainwater) in dry spells. A big old log or a rock in the middle would provide a focal point and nooks and crannies for wildlife.

Irises in need of TLC 

Credit: Richard Bloom/GAP Photos

Clearing my mother’s rather neglected borders, I am wondering about a large patch of irises (variety unknown, planted at least six years ago). She tells me that this year they flowered less well than previously. Should I dig them up and start again, or split the clump and replant as you would other perennials?  Ben Holsworthy, via email 

Now is not the best time to mess around with bearded irises (I am assuming this is what they are). Rather than throw them out, aim to split them next summer after they have flowered again. Around midsummer, dig up the whole clump and separate the young outer “fingers” from the central, non-productive part with a sharp knife. The older part can then be thrown out. Trim the leaves of the saved bits by about half, and tidy up any damaged roots. Plant them about 8in (20cm) apart, pressing them almost horizontally on the soil surface, having first lightly raked in a little organic matter and bonemeal. Iris should never be covered by a layer of soil or mulch, or they might rot. Where they were before may have become shadowed by other plants (hence the lack of flowers), so give the replants a sunny, well-drained site and ensure that the rhizomes get as much direct sun as possible by planting them with their leafy bits at their north end (not as daft as it sounds).

Box at the seaside 

Credit: Andrew Baskott/Alamy

Is box hedging salt and sand tolerant? I have a seaside garden and would like to  put a formal garden in  front of my house.  Stephanie Walker, via email  

I understand that box is moderately tolerant of salt-laden winds, but before you plant hedges of the stuff you might like to stand a single box plant in a decent-sized pot outside your front door to see how it fares this winter. If it doesn’t shrivel or keel over, start work on a hedge in spring. You will have to work hard on the soil, I suspect, and add masses of organic matter. Box hedges are greedy, and foliage becomes yellow/orange when starved. A moisture-retaining inorganic gravel mulch would be helpful, and “look the part”, at the seaside. If your salt winds prove to be too much for your box pot, there are other evergreens that might do better. Small-leaved hebes tolerate seaside conditions, as does santolina (cotton lavender).

The best wines for thirsty friends and family this Christmas

There are some great bottles of spirits and liqueurs out there at the moment – and many of them are readily available in the supermarkets, which have really upped their game in the spirits department over the past few years.

Here is my pick of the best for the festive season. From a premium gin made in the Cotswolds to a small-batch rum from the Philippines, via sloe gin, a surprisingly good discount-store vodka and a ready-mixed negroni, this is a cracking set. There’s something here for every taste, so whether you’re looking for an aperitif, a nip of something to leave for Father Christmas, a bottle for your own Christmas stocking, or something for the emergency present drawer (that you can raid if Christmas gets really stressful), I’m sure one of these will fit the bill.

Aalborg Taffel Akvavit

45%, £23.56/70cl, masterofmalt.com

With a Nordic feast of smoked salmon blinis, pickled herrings...

How to de-stress in the lead up to Christmas

Christmas with Angela Hartnett: how one of the country’s most successful chefs feeds 25 guests 

We had duck one year and I completely overcooked it. It turned out so crisp it would have made excellent duck pancakes. My mum said, “I’d rather have chicken.”’ 

Thank goodness, I think, as one of the country’s most high-profile chefs recalls Christmas feasts gone by – Angela Hartnett can bodge a roast bird like the rest of us.

Gordon Ramsay’s former protégée was head chef at Pétrus under Marcus Wareing before winning a Michelin star at The Connaught in Mayfair, where the restaurant bore her name for five years. She opened her own place, Murano, in 2008. She’s a cookery writer (Angela Hartnett’s Cucina, 2007, and Angela’s Kitchen, 2011, both celebrate the dishes her Italian grandmother taught her) and now the executive chef- proprietor of four London restaurants, chef-director at Hampshire’s Lime Wood hotel, and an MBE. Hartnett couldn’t be more renowned, or more down to earth.

At her Spitalfields home – which she shares with her boyfriend, Neil Borthwick (the head chef at her Shoreditch restaurant, Merchants Tavern), her sister, Anne, and their lodger, Salvatore – her two dogs rule the rooms. Alfie, an elderly Jack Russell brought back from Battersea Dogs Home nine years ago, and bouncy three-year-old Otis, a beagle, skitter across the wooden floors after Hartnett and Borthwick. Otis has his eye on the couple’s preparations for this year’s Christmas menu.

Hartnett and Borthwick's spread of pumpkin and raddichio salad, and roast duck with mustard fruits Credit: Carol Sachs 

Borthwick has roast pumpkin on the go, with its seeds, or pepitas, dry-toasted to scatter over a salad. On the hob, filled pasta pouches bob in a warm broth – Hartnett’s anolini, a family tradition. ‘You braise down some veal and beef and mix the sauce that comes from it with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a little meat, then press that into pasta. That then gets heated in broth,’ she says. ‘To be honest, every year my family say, “We should just have the anolini, why do we need anything else?’’’ 

Anolini 

An annual tradition, the Italian filled pasta cooked in a clear meat broth Credit: Carol Sachs

SERVES 

10-12 as a starter

INGREDIENTS 

For the filling: 

  • oil, for cooking
  • 1 onion, peeled and halved
  • 1 carrot, roughly chopped
  • 1 celery stick, chopped into large chunks
  • 2 thyme sprigs
  • 500g veal rump
  • 1kg chuck steak
  • 1 tbsp tomato purée
  • splash of red wine
  • 800ml chicken stock 
  • 100g fresh breadcrumbs
  • ​50g Parmesan, grated, plus extra to serve

For the pasta dough: 

  • 400g ‘00’ flour, plus a little extra if needed
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tbsp olive oil

For the meat broth: 

  • 200g beef brisket
  • 100g smoked bacon or pancetta, in one piece
  • 1 Toulouse sausage (about 50g)
  • 1 free-range chicken (about 1.5kg), jointed into 8-10 pieces
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 celery stick, chopped
  • 1 leek, chopped
  • 1 carrot, chopped
  • 1 head of garlic, cut in half horizontally
  • 1 thyme sprig
  • 1 bay leaf

METHOD

Add a dash of oil to a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients for the filling. Cook the vegetables and thyme until soft and caramelised. Remove the vegetables and set aside.

Add the veal rump and steak to the pan and cook to caramelise and colour the meat all over. Swap out the meat for the vegetables in the pan, add the tomato purée and cook for two minutes, then return the meat.

Add the wine to deglaze, cooking until it disappears, then add enough stock to cover the meat. Top up with water if needed. Place a sheet of greaseproof paper over the pan and cover with a lid. Cook on a low simmer for three hours, until the meat is falling apart.

Meanwhile, for the pasta dough, mix together the flour with half a teaspoon of salt and tip on to a work surface or board, making a well in the centre. Mix together the eggs and oil and pour two thirds into the well. Starting from the outside, work the flour into the liquid until a dough forms. You may need to add some more egg if the dough doesn’t come together.

Knead for 5-10 minutes, until smooth, firm and elastic, then wrap in cling film and rest in the fridge for an hour before using (the dough will keep for up to 24 hours in the fridge if wrapped tightly, first in cling film and then in foil).

When the meat’s cooking time is up, lift the vegetables and meat out of the sauce. Set aside separately and discard the thyme.

Place the breadcrumbs and Parmesan in a bowl and pour in enough of the sauce to bind them together and make a moist dough.

Mash the vegetables and mix them into the breadcrumbs. Finely chop 150g of the cooked meat and add it to the mixture. Combine well and season. Taste – the flavour should be meaty with a touch of Parmesan, not bready. Put in the fridge to set.

Cut the pasta dough into four pieces and use a rolling pin or the palm of your hand to flatten each one to the width of your pasta machine. With the machine on its widest setting, run each piece through it twice.

Reduce the setting by one notch and run them through twice again. If the dough feels a bit sticky, add a little flour, but not too much as this will dry it out. Run each piece through the machine twice on each notch until you get to the narrowest one. 

Cut the pasta into long strips, 10cm wide. Put two thirds of a teaspoon of filling at intervals of about 2.5cm along each strip, about two thirds of the way down.

Brush between and around each mound of filling with leftover egg mixture.Fold over the long side of the pasta so that it completely covers the filling.

Cup your hand and carefully press down around each mound to get all the air out. Using a 3-4cm cutter or shot glass, cut out individual rounds. Either freeze the anolini or allow them to dry and use within 24 hours.

For the meat broth, cut the brisket, bacon or pancetta, and sausage into chunks about the same size as the chicken pieces. Put the chopped meat and chicken in a large pan and pour in cold water to cover.

Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for an hour, skimming off any scum. After an hour, add the vegetables and herbs and season. Simmer for 1-1½ hours.

Strain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pan and discard the meat. Check the seasoning. 

Bring the meat broth to the boil in a large pan, tip in the anolini and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until they rise to the surface. Serve broth and anolini sprinkled with Parmesan.

We never do presents in the morning, always after lunch. We’re quite disciplined like that Angela Hartnett
Building up to the big day

Two bowlfuls of anolini each are customary at Christmas, which, due to large numbers (‘there are normally about 25 of us’), Hartnett and Borthwick host at one of their restaurants, usually the converted Victorian apothecary that is now home to Merchants. ‘We serve 200 to 300 people a day over the Christmas period,’ Hartnett says, ‘and work up to December 24. It’s always mad.’

Before Christmas Eve dawns, the staff clear out the fridges and pull crackers, and Borthwick makes a toast with a double magnum of wine. The last cracker joke told, Merchants and Murano close for five days; the two Cafe Muranos, in St James’s and Covent Garden, break for two, before reopening along with Pastificio (Hartnett’s pasta-making deli and wine shop) after Boxing Day. 

Christmas Day begins, aptly, with food. ‘We never do presents in the morning, always after lunch. We’re quite disciplined like that,’ Hartnett explains. Lunch rarely starts before 3pm and lasts well into the night as colleagues and friends drop in on the celebrations.

Hartnett takes charge of the cooking while a couple of Merchants chefs help with prep.  Her mother, Giuliana, makes the Christmas cake. Borthwick, I discover, is considered too messy to be allowed near the kitchen on the day. ‘Yeah, that’s fine, I’ll just take it easy,’ he deadpans. I suspect he’s rather pleased.

Roast duck 

The carved duck, served with a turnip or two Credit: Carol Sachs

We eat this with cooked turnips and their tops, and mustard fruits.

SERVES

INGREDIENTS 

  • 1 whole, oven-ready duck (Gressingham, or any other good-quality bird)
  • 1 orange, sliced
  • 1 star anise
  • ½ cinnamon stick

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6.

Pat dry the skin of the duck with kitchen paper and prick it all over with a fork. Push the orange slices, star anise and cinnamon stick into the cavity.

Place the duck on a rack set over a roasting tray to allow fat to drip on to the tray. Roast for 10 minutes, until the skin starts to turn crisp and crinkly, then turn down the oven temperature to 160C/gas mark 3 and roast for 45 minutes (for pink duck – if you prefer it well done, cook for a further 15 minutes).

Allow to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving. Reserve any duck fat from the tray for roasting potatoes.

Pancetta and almond stuffing 

Good enough to be eaten on its own - Hartnett's golden-brown stuffing Credit: Carol Sachs

SERVES

6-8

INGREDIENTS 

  • knob of butter, plus extra for greasing
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped 
  • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  • 100g pancetta or streaky bacon, chopped
  • 100g almonds, chopped
  • 400g sausage meat 
  • 1 tbsp chopped sage
  • 3 tbsp chopped parsley
  • 100g breadcrumbs
  • pinch of ground cinnamon 
  • pinch of ground clove

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4.

Place the butter in a pan over a low-medium heat, add the onion and garlic, season, and cook until soft. Throw in the pancetta or bacon towards the end to cook until golden brown. Tip the pan’s contents into a large bowl and allow to cool slightly. Mix in all the other ingredients until well combined and season.

To check the seasoning, fry off a little piece of stuffing in a hot pan to taste. Mould the stuffing mixture into a large sausage shape about 5cm in diameter.

Lightly butter a large piece of foil and place the stuffing in the middle. Wrap and set on a lipped baking tray with the edges of the foil facing up. Add a splash of water to the tray.

Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil to slice.

I hide everything, otherwise Neil starts using it, it goes to work and I never see it again Angela Hartnett
Kitchen kit for a magnificent menu

This year, the anolini will be followed by their favourite salads (a bright, wintry combination of citrus, pomegranate and fennel, and bitter radicchio tossed with sweet Ironbark pumpkin), rustic pancetta and almond stuffing (good enough to be served separately from  the meat) – and another attempt at roast duck.

Borthwick lays out the plates, sharing a story for each, including one platter struck through with a vivid crack: ‘On Burns Night at the restaurant we serve a big haggis, and one year a friend stabbed it too hard!’ 

Downstairs in the basement kitchen (where Otis tries to snaffle a morsel of duck), Hartnett’s battered and burnished frying pans are stacked on top of the cream Rayburn cooker. ‘She brought them with her from The Connaught,’ Borthwick says, pulling an etched paring knife for trimming turnips and a huge, well-used cleaver from a drawer brimful of blades.

‘We have far too many,’ Hartnett admits. ‘You never get rid of knives. We went to Japan earlier in the year and bought some really lovely ones.’ They usually pass on extras to new kitchen apprentices, but these have been squirrelled away upstairs (‘Angela’s a hoarder,’ Borthwick says), for good reason: ‘I hide everything, otherwise Neil starts using it, it goes to work and I never see it again.’ 

Roast pumpkin and radicchio salad 

One of the couple's favourite salads, served on Christmas day Credit: Carol Sachs 

SERVES

6

INGREDIENTS

For the salad:

  • 1 small Ironbark or similar pumpkin
  • 1 tbsp oil
  • bunch of Swiss chard, stalks removed but reserved
  • ½ head of radicchio, leaves separated
  • 1 small head of chicory, leaves separated

For the vinaigrette: 

  • 1 garlic clove, crushed
  • 1 tsp Dijon mustard
  • 125ml red-wine vinegar
  • 500ml olive oil

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 180C/gas mark 4.

Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds. Separate the seeds from the membrane with your fingers and toast them in a dry pan with a pinch of salt, making sure they don’t burn.

Slice the pumpkin halves into wedges and peel them. Toss them in a tablespoon of oil and spread them on a baking tray. Roast until tender, remove from the oven and allow to cool.

For the vinaigrette, stir the crushed garlic into the mustard then whisk in the red-wine vinegar. Add the oil gradually, whisking all the time, until incorporated. Season and leave to one side.

Cook the chard stalks in a pan of boiling water for about five minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with kitchen paper. Add the leaves to the pan. Cook for two minutes, until slightly wilted. Allow the stalks and leaves to cool and drain on kitchen paper. 

When the pumpkin is cool, toss all the salad ingredients together in a serving bowl. Add vinaigrette to taste, and offer the rest on the side.

Fennel, pomegranate and orange salad

A simple combination of vibrant winter flavours Credit: Carol Sachs

SERVES

8

INGREDIENTS

For the vinaigrette:

  • 100ml olive oil
  • 1 tsp English mustard
  • ½ garlic clove, crushed
  • 75ml red-wine vinegar

For the salad:

  • 2 oranges, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 2 bulbs of fennel, trimmed and outer leaves discarded, the rest thinly sliced
  • the seeds of 1 pomegranate
  • 120g rocket leaves
  • mint or parsley leaves (optional)​

METHOD

Whisk the vinaigrette ingredients together and season to taste.

Arrange the orange slices, fennel, pomegranate seeds and rocket leaves in a serving dish, scattering over the herbs, if using.

Pour over some of the vinaigrette but do not saturate the salad (offer more on the side). Finish with a touch of salt.

A cousin often bakes florentine biscuits to give as gifts
An Italian Christmas

Hartnett still kneads pasta dough on the worn wooden board her grandmother used. She and her two siblings lived with their  Italian maternal grandmother while Giuliana worked, and Hartnett watched, and then emulated, Nonna. She learnt to make her anolini, tagliatelle, breads and zabaglione. ‘I’m sure health and safety would have something to say about me working on wood,’ she says wryly. 

After the Christmas feast, the assembled group brings out the backgammon. ‘Angela’s competitive,’ says Borthwick. Their rather generous Secret Santa arrangement saw Hartnett receive a leather backgammon set last year. To celebrate Alfie’s first Christmas with the family, her brother supplied a cushion in the shape of her favourite Chanel perfume’s bottle. ‘It’s called Chewnel and Alfie still proudly sits on it upstairs.’ A cousin often bakes florentine biscuits to give as gifts. 

Otis will be present at this year’s restaurant celebrations (‘he’s good with kids’), while Alfie rests at home. After Christmas, Hartnett and Borthwick hope to visit friends in Wales, to sit in front of a fire, watch films and go for walks. With luck, they’ll be able to toast a roast duck that earned even Mum’s approval. 

Walnut cake 

Delicious with a cup of tea, or after a meal Credit: Carol Sachs

SERVES

8-10

INGREDIENTS

  • butter, for greasing
  • 300g walnuts, plus extra to decorate
  • 10 eggs, separated
  • 300g caster sugar, plus extra to finish
  • the zest of ½ lemon
  • 100g self-raising flour
  • ½ tsp baking powder
  • crème fraîche or cream, to serve

METHOD

Preheat the oven to 160C/gas mark 3. Grease and line the base and sides of a 30cm round cake tin.

Blitz the walnuts in a food processor to a crumb-like texture. Beat the egg whites in a bowl until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

In another bowl, beat the yolks and sugar until the mixture is pale and creamy. Fold the egg whites very gently into the yolk and sugar mixture using a large metal spoon, taking care to incorporate them without overworking it.

Stir in the lemon zest, then fold in the flour and baking power. Finally, fold in the walnuts.

Pour the mixture into the lined tin and bake for 1-1½ hours, until a skewer comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out on to a wire rack to cool completely.

Sprinkle with a little caster sugar and serve with extra walnuts and crème fraîche or cream.